<![CDATA[MELANIE VAN ZYL

<![CDATA[MELANIE VAN ZYL - Adventures]]>Tue, 16 Sep 2025 01:22:19 +0200Weebly<![CDATA[Reasons to return to Reunion Island: an off-the-beaten-track bucket list]]>Fri, 27 Nov 2020 15:03:48 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/reasons-to-return-to-reunion-island-an-off-the-beaten-track-bucket-listOn learning about my job as a travel photojournalist, people often ask me to share a favourite destination, or most epic travel assignment. I think a better question is: which places would I go back to?

For me, travelling is never about ticking off a destination and moving on. It is rather the contrary.

When I visit a new country or place, the travel list only grows longer. For example, I yearn to return to Uganda and explore the parks and desert regions of the remote north. In Namibia, I'd relish a hike along the bottom of the Fish River Canyon. While I've stepped upon the sandy shores of Mozambique's magnificent beaches, many of the more remote and wild regions emphatically appeal to the overlander in me.

My trip to Reunion Island last year was jam-packed, and although tiny, it's not easy to experience everything on offer at this enthralling Indian Ocean island.

Also check out my South African's Guide to Reunion Island

These are my reasons to return to Reunion, a personal off-the-beaten-track bucket list.

Exciting lava tunnel explorations

Reunion Island's most famous attraction has to be its active volcano. Piton de la Fournaise occupies almost one-third of the surface of Reunion and is one of the most active volcanoes on earth. Although we trudged upon the hardened lava that scars the surface, and even peered into the centre of its core from high up in the sky, I'd love to go on a more in-depth adventure.

Travellers can go underground (dressed in all the necessary safety garb and under the expertise of a qualified guide) and walk within the volcano's lair through a network of lava tubes or tunnels.

Read more about this epic adventure from South Africans who have done it: Inside the Lava Tunnels on Reunion Island by Di Brown and Volcano Tourism on Reunion Island by Iga Motylska.

Mega multi-day mountain hikes

I adored the soaring green peaks of our day trip to Cilaos, which is one of three cirques on the island. Formed by glacial erosion, a cirque is a geological mountain feature that refers to the steep-sided hollow at the head of a mountainside.

Reunion's Cirque de Mafate is the most remote pinnacle, and hiking across its canyons and ridges sounds right up my alley. No roads lead into this Cirque, and it's only accessible by foot or by air, which makes it one of the wildest places in Reunion. Accommodation is offered in quaint gitês and overall it's a very affordable way for South Africans to experience the island's sublime scenery. Read about what it's like to hike in Reunion from Heather Mason.

A high-tech turtle centre

After researching a story about turtle conservation in South Africa, I discovered that Reunion has a highly-regarded and established rehabilitation and research centre. Kelonia is part aquarium, part conservation station and offers the chance to see all five varieties of turtle that swim the waters around Réunion.

Glass kayaking

I admit, it's probably a bit of a novelty, but I desperately want to jump into one of these transparent boats and glide over the clear waters of the Indian Ocean. Launching from the beach of Trou d'Eau, paddlers can expect to see Emperor Angelfish and pretty Yellow Teardrop Butterflyfish flitting below.

I'd also be super keen to explore the ocean more on a scuba diving adventure. The marine park boasts up to a thousand species of fish (plus those five turtle species mentioned above), or there's the most adventurous option of diving in the south, around Saint-Pierre to see the volcanic lava flows underwater.

Brilliant Forest Birding

The Mascarene Swiftlet, a Zebra Dove and the White-tailed Tropicbird. Don't these sound fantastical? They're just a handful of the beautiful birds you can find on Reunion Island. Better still, are the places they live.

The lush forests of Bebour-Belouve are home to plenty of indigenous species unique to the island. Lonely Planet reckons that this woodland could "set the stage for a new version of Avatar" and sure wouldn't mind a bit of forest-bathing here on my next trip. Hopefully it is not too far away.

For more information, contact the Reunion Island Tourism Board South African Office at reunionisland.za@atout-france.fr

I've partnered with @gotoreunionisland and am reliving beloved memories from my trip there last year 🇫🇷 All opinions and recommendations expressed are my own.

]]><![CDATA[Freewheeling through the Free State]]>Tue, 24 Nov 2020 16:36:45 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/freewheeling-free-state-road-tripLocal travellers are acquainted with the Karoo's well-trodden Route 62, but have you heard of the Free State's Eagle Route? For space, charm, cherries and cheese head to Clarens - but also beyond!

Straddling Lesotho's circular border, views abound on the Eagle Route. Starting from Harrismith (that iconic Wimpy-breakfast halfway point between Durban and Jo'burg) the tourism circuit rambles on through the Free State's favourite towns. Clarens and Ficksburg feature, but it's the lesser-known stops that will keep spunky trippers out on the road.

Here's how to make the most of this Maloti mountainside meander.

Harrismith to Phuthaditjhaba

Before stepping off the N3, push north towards Van Reenen and visit South Africa's smallest church. The Llandaff Oratory, dubbed 'The Little Church', seats just eight and offers far better padkos than frenetic fuel stations. Munching jam-filled scones in the outdoor tea garden is far more distinguished, and you can even call ahead with the order for speedy service (058-671-0106).

Double back on the N3, shift briefly towards Bethlehem on the N5 and turn left onto the R74, which skirts the northern reaches of Sterkfontein Dam.

Witsieshoek is a community tourism project owned by the Batlokoa community of QwaQwa. At 2220 metres above sea level, the Fair Trade stay claims to be the highest lodge in the Northern Drakensberg. As such, it is unrivalled for its convenience in exploring iconic peaks, such as the Sentinel Peak Chain Ladder hike.

Worth the detour: Roughly 30km drive from Harrismith (stop for stunning views over Sterkfontein Dam on the way) is Retiefklip and the Kaalvoet Vrou statue, a monument angled to stride away from the Natal province in memory of Susanna Smit. In 1837, she declared to rather trek barefoot back over the mountains than live under British rule.

Travel Tip: Travelling with puppies? Nip over the provincial border and spend the night in Kwazulu-Natal. Located on the crown of the picturesque Oliviershoek Pass, Little Switzerland Resort sits halfway between Harrismith and Bergville on the recently resurfaced R74 tarred route. Self-catering pet-friendly units cost from R435pp.

Phuthaditjhaba to Clarens

The undisputed star of the Eastern Free State, this little village gets plenty of publicity - and for good reason. Equidistant from Durban and Johannesburg, Clarens is a seasoned mountain escape famed for its art, craft beer and village rambles. Both new and returning visitors will enjoy a visit to Noah's Cheese for tastings in authentic farm settings. (Open daily from 10am to 5pm, but closed on Tuesdays) or a guided walk to the Motouleng Cave, which is considered sacred ground in these parts (R350 per person for a half-day tour).

Check-in: Sandstone cladding contrasts the contemporary insides of Periwinkle Grove Cottages, which sit a fifteen-minute walk from the centre of Clarens. B&B R640pp

Worth the detour: The Free State's only national park is Golden Gate Highlands National Park and protects the grassland biome. Drive the transit road for free, do a day hike (entry is R59pp) or immerse fully into the landscape on the two-day Ribbok Hiking Trail. Easily tackled in a weekend away, it is excellent value for money. R225pp.

Clarens to Fouriesburg

Drive southeast of Clarens on the R711, and find Fouriesburg. Founded in 1892 and declared Capital of the Orange Free State Republic during the Boer War, today the town is better known for its easy access to Lesotho via the Caledonspoort border. Find outdoor eats at La Fromagerie at Jackal's Hill (a new tasting venue open Saturday to Monday from 10am till 4pm). If you're not all cheesed out, locals reckon Windmill Pub has the best pizza.

Don't miss: Quirky antique menagerie, Jenlee's Country Shop and Kitchen on the R71 T-junction is now also home to the new Brandwaterkom Museum. Peruse the goods of yesteryear while awaiting an order of coffee with cake. Entry costs R10pp.

Check-in: Jackal's Hill accommodation is both eco- and pocket-friendly. Hot water and electricity are solar-powered, while beds feature locally-produced feather duvets. From R450pp.

Fouriesburg to Ficksburg

Set between Fouriesburg and Ficksburg, Ionia Cherry Farm is worth a visit even without fruit on the trees. Dig into their Belgian waffles, jams and liqueur. However, if you can, time a visit to cherry season. Established in 1953, Constantia farm welcomes guests between the end of October and early December for tours. Eat your fill of cherries fresh for market or arrange a picnic in the orchard.

Check-in: Dwarfed by vast mountainous landscapes, Springwater Cottages comprise three open-plan units lined up beside each other but each with an unobscured view. For a real spoil, call ahead with a grocery list and find your fridge fully stocked on arrival. From R380pp.

Tip: Have a 4x4? The offroad trails across Moolmanshoek Private Game Reserve rank highly among pros thanks to excellent guides and epic vistas.

Worth the detour: 45km from Ficksburg, those in the know skip Clarens in favour of the smaller dorpie of Rosendal. Visit the Oppidam Coffee Shop for carrot cake or Benjamin's restaurant for homemade pasta. Find them both on Facebook and peruse gorgeously affordable overnight options.

Ficksburg to Clocolan

From Ficksburg, continue on the R26 towards Clocolan. Before the turnoff into town, visit delightful roadside shopping complex, The Cabin for fresh-off-the-fire roosterkoek and plenty of other goodies, made just like Ouma used to.

Check-in: Amohela ho Spitskop is a sanctuary. Both country retreat and conservancy, there are several self-catering cottages, a sublime summer splash pool plus hiking and cycling trails to boot. From R545pp.

A version of this story first appeared in Escapes magazine.

]]><![CDATA[Bushveld Bargain: Why I Love Lindani]]>Wed, 18 Nov 2020 16:14:01 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/bushveld-bargain-lindani-lodgesThis underrated Waterberg hideaway is not only the classic weekender distance from Johannesburg but also a boon to those with pockets in a pinch

A family of happily-snuffling warthogs scatter scornfully as our sedan pulls into the parking lot of Lindani's Molope Tented Camp. To our right, a communal kitchen space, refreshing splash pool and braai boma (ideal for stargazing later).

To the left, a band of four tents set bashfully in the shade at the base of a verdant hillside. Three-hours drive and a trio of toll gates from Johannesburg, we had arrived at our exclusive-use Waterberg bush camp in Lindani.

Sam and Peg Van Coller started Lindani back in 1998, renovating the first farmhouse, and have since developed a brilliant eye for detail. This attentiveness is what sets their 11 beautifully appointed self-catering stays apart.

My grandparents used to take my sister and I to Lindani Lodges during school holidays. We’d cycle, collect dung beetles and porcupine quills, and feed the orphaned black rhino, Bwana, at conservationist Clive Walker’s place in the nearby Lapalala Wilderness Reserve. Lindani is also where I found a pile of nature magazines and begged my grandpa to subscribe me to EnviroKids, the Wildlife & Environment Society of South Africa’s magazine. I’d decided that when I grew up I would be a conservationist (still a pipe dream of mine!)

After the smooth drive, we unpack the makings of a glorious weekend from the car boot - potjie ingredients, walking shoes, board games and a pack of Uno - while waiting for the final element. Good friends, six of them, who arrive just in time for sundowners. Our tented camp sleeps eight without compromising seclusion and couples thoughtful comforts with just the right touch of rustic charm.

This 5000-hectare sanctuary forms part of the larger Waterberg Biosphere encompassing rocky mountains, sloping trails and grasslands home to plains game. The outfitted kitchen has ample crockery, cutlery and cookware plus a generous dining table and benches.

Like our resident squadron of hungry warthog, we all gather around to devour that potjie before retiring fireside again. (If cooking is not your idea of a holiday, there's also delectable farm kitchen fare available to pre-order).

The next day we spot plenty of zebra, giraffe, impala and more on short bicycle rides around the property and also hear the sharp barks of kudu on the hiking trail immediately above our tents.

Lindani is not a Big Five destination, which is for the best really as it means that us visitors have rule of the reserve instead.

Unless, perhaps, you happen to ask one of those Waterberg warthogs.

Plan your trip to the Waterberg

From Johannesburg drive north on the N1 highway. At the Kranskop Toll Plaza (about 160km) take the left exit to Modimolle and follow the R33 through the town centre. From there it’s a 60km drive to Vaalwater, which is the last stop for ice, fuel and food.

Pack your power banks. There are no plug points, but solar electricity keeps the lights and fridge going. Tents are simple with twin beds (easily hoisted together), an en-suite bathroom and modest decks for lazing an afternoon away. Sweet simplicity is compensated for by the two sublime outdoor showers. Don’t miss the chance to order freshly baked farm bread from the kitchen.

Lindani Lodges has nine self-catering options, from the eight-bed Molope tented camp, great for a weekend away with friends to the 18-sleeper, four-house Motseng Lodge complex.

The tented camp costs from R350 per person and bicycles available to hire too. Keep an eye on Facebook for their specials though, currently you can nab a weeked at just R550 per person. Digital nomads and people working from home right now should also consider their new special. Lindani Lodges have just installed Wi-Fi so you can work from the bush for week from just R6500.

]]><![CDATA[Soar, Sail and Stay in Reunion's Saint-Paul]]>Wed, 28 Oct 2020 09:46:00 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/soar-sail-and-stay-in-reunions-saint-paulAn untamable ocean, stark lava dried into a rugged rock, charming city-scapes, tumbling waterfalls and lush hillsides - this is Reunion Island as seen from the sky.

Many photographs snapped from my helicopter flip across the island were blurry, or focused on the windscreen, or have a pilot nose in the way. Luckily, that doesn’t matter, it is the vivid memory I cherish most.

The way my heart beats faster on recalling the whipping blades that carried us ever higher, or the way that the mountain peaks dissolved and gave way to abyss after plunging abyss, one spectacularly carved in two by the white stream of a thin waterfall, another pockmarked by dark lava splotches.

I want to clutch my seatbelt right now as I remember our aircraft pitching left, as though I might slip from the sky, and land inside a forested mountain fold.

But where to base yourself for such an unforgettable touch of fantasy in Reunion?

Why should travellers to Reunion stay in Saint-Paul?

Saint-Denis is the capital of Reunion and usually steals many visitors to the island. However, Saint-Paul, which sits along the north-west coast of Reunion makes an excellent base for soaring, sailing and swimming too.

1. Beaches

The municipality of Saint-Paul includes the island's most exquisite beaches (L'Ermitage and Saline-les-Bains are renowned for their sublime waters, plus more conventional seaside resorts and beach loungings) and is home to the famous weekly open-air market.

2. The Weekend Market

Held every Friday and Saturday morning, an open-air market convenes breathtakingly on the seafront. The picturesque stalls and colourful produce of the Saint-Paul market make for a great culinary outing that doesn't break the budget for South African travellers. Peruse the local goods, snack on samosas, stock up on spice and enjoy the balmy sunshine.

You can even take a walk on the blackened beach sand, but don't be tempted to swim. One must take the swimming regulations seriously here on Reunion Island.

Love food? Read about Reunion's real cuisine, from farm to fork.

3. An exceptional helicopter ride

Not far from the market, lies the helicopter hangar of Helilagon. From this base (there are two on the island) you will hop aboard to traverse pea-green peaks, sparkling lagoons and cross the entire diameter of Reunion to circle an active volcano that dominates the south.

It's nothing short of fantastic to admire this scope and scale of the Island from the sky.

4. Sunset Crusing

From the sky to the sea, it's also simple to set sail from Saint-Paul. A catamaran sunset cruise grants guests another side to Reunion Island. The two-hour boat trip offers glorious golden hour landscapes of the pinnacled landmass, and in certain seasons whale-watching too.

Scientists have recorded 22 cetacean species that roam the waters around Reunion, including Humpback, Sperm whales and Fin whales, like South Africa, they’re best-spotted between June to October.

5. Hot Tub Retreats

Close to both the chopper and catamaran base, lies a city sanctuary. Lodge Roche Tamarin and Spa Village is a real treat. Each log cabin unit features a hot-tub spa bath built into the deck and boasts views of the Indian Ocean. It is also ensconced in trees and provides an awesome alternative to typical beach stays.

However, when you wish to venture further afield, this four-star stay is just a 20-minute drive from Saint-Denis and Saint-Gilles-les-Bains.

For further information, contact the Reunion Island Tourism Board South African Office at reunionisland.za@atout-france.fr

I've partnered with @gotoreunionisland and am reliving beloved memories from my trip there last year 🇫🇷 All opinions and recommendations expressed are my own.

]]><![CDATA[How to Navigate Namaqualand on an Unforgettable Flower Safari]]>Mon, 19 Oct 2020 07:09:14 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/how-to-navigate-namaqualand-flower-safariEvery year, South Africa's remote semi-deserts erupt into a carpet of colour, but some years are just better than others.

2020 will forever signify global disaster. The year of lockdown, banana bread, that elusive 'new normal', pivoting and, of course, pandemic. However, for the Northern Cape, this odd year also offered up a natural miracle. After almost a decade of extreme drought, the region finally welcomed healthy winter rains that ensured the abundant return of South Africa's seasonal vivid wildflower spectacle.

We buckled into the capable Ford Everest to report on Namaqualand's brilliant blooms and spread the good news.

A Ford-powered Flower Safari

Our adventure began in Egoli, and we had a lot of ground to cover in our one-week itinerary. The Ford Everest 2.0L bi-turbo ensured we made mincemeat of tar and gravel roads alike. The sleek but spacious vehicle has a 10-speed automatic transmission and easily powered our cross-country adventure with maximum comfort.

We were packed to the hilt too, with camping kit, camera gear, snacks, sanitiser and other road trip supplies. All we had to do was plug coordinates into the navigation display, hit cruise control, and off we went.

From Egoli to Isolation

South Africa's provincial borders opened just in time for us to (safely) seek out the distant landscapes that tend to transform into technicolour wonderlands. We hit the N1 south towards Cape Town, opting for an early morning that ensured we missed city traffic slogs and found ourselves pulling off for a Wimpy brekkie at 9am.

Also read this: Cruising the Karoo's Flourishing Wilds

The simple suites at Eco Karoo Lodge beckoned as our first overnight, and so we swopped the national highway for brilliant backroads. Lauren pointed to stately Oryx strutting their stuff and lovely lambs, while co-pilot Carmen helped me spot the Ground squirrels who sprinted recklessly across the dusty road. We opened the windows, allowing Karoo air to rush in and admired the sprawling landscapes as they unfolded before us, bleached and endless.

On arrival, we relished 4200 hectares of peace and quiet for an afternoon and evening. Just a two-hour drive from Bloemfontein, but it already felt like a million miles from everywhere.

Day two saw us crossing the wide Orange River on an old steel bridge, travelling through De Aar, Britstown and Carnarvon before crunching gravel again to get to Stuurmansfontein. Our unique igloo-shaped abode was an extraordinary off-the-grid traditional Corbelled House.

Built using stacked stones by trekboers (migrant stock farmers) in the 1800s, these dwellings and granaries are found nowhere else in South Africa. Stuurmansfontein is perfectly restored and has stargazing sublime.

Namaqualand - or Never Never Land?

The following morning, after passing through Williston (enjoying coffee and a guided tour at De Ark) and the enormous post box that marks Calvinia, we spied our first wildflowers. I steered the Ford Everest off the tar again, heading south for the Cederberg.

Yellow daisies the colour of deep butter adorned Bieudouw Valley. The sun shone in our favour, and the flower faces swung towards the 4X4 in all their glory. What a display! We spent a full afternoon photographing every angle then collapsed happily into our tents at Enjo Nature Farm for an evening beside the gurgling stream.

Despite covering the majority of the country, the Northern Cape is pegged as the 'forgotten province'. Few travellers set foot in these rugged desert-scapes - until August and September roll around. In Nieuwoudtville, we found plenty of other tourists cruising the colourful backroads in search of blossoms. Both were out in force at the Hantam Botanical Garden.

Daisies, lilies, vygies and endless other technicolour flower species had burst into flower, forming lilac, peach and burnt orange fields. Fuelled from roosterkoek bought from the tannies outside of town, we then stopped to appreciate the 90-metre high Niewoutdville waterfall before dropping down Vanrhyns Pass, built by Thomas Baine.

Many travellers know that Namaqualand boasts bright blooms, but few realise that the Namaqua National Park consists of two totally different sections. We started down at the bottom, where we had to engage 4X4 to camp beside the crashing waves of the West Coast.

First, I let our tyre pressures down to the SANParks recommendation of 1,2 bars and let the Everest do all the hard work. It effortlessly navigated the pale, loose beach sand that distinguished the Namaqua Coastal section of the park.

We drove beside ocean for 50-kilometres, enjoying the spectacular coastline and keeping an eye out for both marine and land mammals. We were rewarded with Meerkats, Ostrich, Oryx plus an ever-growing floral display as we motored north atop craggy mountain tops. The complete 4X4 route took us just over six hours to complete and culminated in an epic flower finale at the Skilpad Wildflower Section of Namaqua National Park.

Kamieskroon made for a simple self-catering stopover before we pushed on to Springbok and one last bucket list tick. Augrabies is derived from the Khoi word Aukoerabis which means 'the place of great noise', and the cascade sure is impressive. We practically had Augrabies Falls to ourselves, and we roamed the walkways soaking up views of the Orange River from all aspects.

On our final day, we drove the long ten hours home to Johannesburg in one shot. Upington, Kathu, Kuruman, Vryburg and Ventersdorp passed in a blur. What a wild ride it was across the Karoo, Cederberg and Northern Cape.

It still doesn’t feel real. The fact that those flowers appear with such glamour and splendour, then retreat again into the stoney, arid plains. Is this Namaqualand? Or a fantasy? A Never Never Land?

Either way, it didn't break the budget.

Travelling from hubs like Johannesburg to small towns risked exposure, but we endeavoured to mitigate the risk of Covid-19 spread at all times. We kept to ourselves by camping and using self-catering stays, sanitised often and wore a mask at all times. However, we also did our best to support local stopping off for socially-distanced tours, padstal nibbles and paying those vital conservation fees.

Our trip worked out to R5200 per person, 3500km, 50 driving hours, eight days, three friends and all in one extraordinary country!

Disclaimer: Ford South Africa powered our journey to the Northern Cape and sponsored a vehicle for the week-long road trip. I independently planned the route, itinerary and destinations, all opinions expressed are my own.

]]><![CDATA[Wild At Heart at Kosi Forest Lodge]]>Mon, 12 Oct 2020 14:10:38 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/wild-at-heart-kosi-forest-lodgeThis remote northern KwaZulu-Natal outpost will make you feel like the only people in the world.

Untamed palm fronds unfurl from humid heights, and thick fern foliage clogs the forest floor for a positively Jurassic undertaking. Walking on paths cleared by hippos through the tangled realm of Kosi Bay's Raffia palm forest feels like a voyage to the end of the world. Largely speaking, it is.

Kosi Forest Lodge is the only private stay in this part of iSimangaliso Wetland Park and a balanced base for meeting Maputaland and its blend of wooded, wetland wilds that eventually merge with the borders and beaches of Mozambique.

Whether by walking, canoeing, snorkelling or aboard a motorised boat, all guided excursions are hosted by Maputaland residents who illuminate the flora, fauna and fish with local lore. There's plenty of adventure to be had beside the glittering lakes and serene beaches, but for every rugged jaunt, there is an equally romantic opportunity.

Withdraw from all the activity to one of the eight secluded cabins. Admittedly, this stay is not strictly tented thanks to a thatched roof. Still, canvas walls let just enough of the outside in to feel at one with the wild (though simultaneously safe enough from any creepy crawlies).

Engulfed by forest, the supreme feature of these charming suites are open-air fairytale baths best enjoyed in the honeyed glow of golden lanterns - a gentle reminder that at Kosi Forest Lodge, you can do as much or as little as you like.

Plan your trip to Kosi Forest Lodge

A 4x4 vehicle is required to access the sandy beach roads of Kosi Forest Lodge. Take advantage of the 40% discount for SADC residents at all Isibindi Africa Lodges. All-inclusive stay costs from R2022 pp until 30 April 2021 (dates exclude 15 Dec 2020 - 15 Jan 2021 and Easter weekend 2021).

A version of this story originally appeared in Escapes magazine.

]]><![CDATA[From Farm to Fire to Fork, Where to Find Real Reunion Island Cuisine]]>Mon, 21 Sep 2020 15:12:16 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/reunion-island-cuisine-local-storiesFamed as an island for the adventurous, don’t forget to add this real Creole cooking class to the itinerary when visiting Reunion.

South Africa's borders will reopen again on 1 October 2020 and there's a whole new world out there. As regional travel resumes, Africa's Indian Ocean islands present enticing reopening travel opportunities.

If you're seeking an off-the-beaten track atoll with foodie flair, Reunion Island is just a short hop, skip and direct four-away flight from South Africa.

On my visit to the island a year ago, the sugarcane towered above our tourist bus. Over two metres tall, the grass-green tubes left little room to manoeuvre down the steep route to Philippe Morel's farm on Reunion Island. Philippe’s local stories grant guests a unique understanding of the island and its fascinating history, in a most gratifying gourmet package.

One of France's 18 regions, the ubiquity of macarons, croissants, baguettes and other symbolic elements of the mainland (all billed in Euros to boot too) are a reminder that the island is entirely French. However, an agricultural walk details the many differences between Europe and this African region.

A Reunionese farmer with French settler roots (originally, his family left Normandy in the 1800s), Philippe works with the Association for the Promotion and Preservation of Les Hauts de Sainte-Marguerite Heritage to conserve Reunion's culture and traditions.

On arrival at his smallholding in Saint-Benoît, Philippe (wearing his straw hat and a smile) began our experience with the very finest. Served in small espresso-sized cups (black with a dollop of sugar) our coffee and its story set the stage for a decidedly delicious day. Coffee plants of the Arabica variety were brought to Bourbon Island (as Reunion was named back then) in 1715 but mutated into a new species after years on the island's nutrient-rich hills.

When sugarcane crops dominated from the 1800s onwards, Bourbon pointu (which means sharp or pointed and alludes to the coffee bean shape) almost disappeared. Only very recently in the 2000s, were the crops identified again and the speciality beverage enjoyed a resurgence. Native to Reunion, Bourbon pointu is now one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

Once our cups emptied (taking advantage of the opportunity, I enjoyed two) Philippe led us to his kitchen quarters. Contemporary Reunionese culture is the result of European pioneers, Malagasy proximity, plus Indian, Asian and African labour movements. Generally, anyone born on the island is considered Creole, including Philippe. Smoke swirled from the outside kitchen, mixing with the early morning sunlight.

It reminded me of home.

Just like South Africa, traditional food in Réunion required fire, and black pots sat at the ready. Risofé was first on the menu, an energy-providing breakfast of rice (usually leftover from the evening before and mixed with spice) to sustain a farmer for the day.

Whistling as he worked, Philippe divvied out ingredients and enlisted us to chop alongside him. Onions, salt, garlic and chilli sizzled to duck fat ('I prefer it to oil', said Philippe) and tomatoes were grilled in a smaller vessel, destined to mature into a lime-laced chutney.

'The flavour is potent, so you only use the skin and zest, or the leaf. Not the juice!' The second dish we collaborated on was cod cari (curry in South Africa) prepared with banana skins. 'A mix of Portugal and India', Philipe declared. 'Eating the skin is a habit from India'.

Leaving the spices to simmer, we then set off to explore the home of these ingredients. The farm produces everything from jackfruit, ginger, tamarind and turmeric to mango, which, like the skins, trace their roots back to India. 'I make my living as a farmer, but my passion is food and cooking. My sons live in France, and it is my duty to share these cultures with him'.

First on the stroll, speciality palm trees, whose cores become a salad-style delicacy named palmiste fetching about 20 euro in the restaurants. Then, pineapple plants, which take about two years to bear fruit – 'best served with a sprinkle of salt', enthused Philipe – followed by an inspection of the vanilla vines, whose flowers are manually pollinated by hand.

Philippe also shared the complexities of small scale farming. 'July is sugarcane harvest time, and we harvest by hand. It's complicated to find the labour for this, as it's a difficult job, of course. You can get paid 15 euros per ton that you cut. In 2006, we lost the right to use pesticides due to French law, and there was an increased interest in more natural farming'.

These new laws had an impact on productivity. 'We are producing less than before, so we have to adapt. The cane is smaller, but in terms of the health of the earth, it's better. I'm feeding the people, so I have a responsibility to them'.

Farmers like Philippe have been forced to diversify their production and visitors to the farm, like us, are part of this diversification.

Mascarene sugar (another former name for the island and still the title of the larger archipelago to which Reunion belongs) is an ingredient in our final dish. After dining on the cari, rice and homemade sausages, sweet-potato gateau follows.

A dense dessert of vanilla, rum, eggs, butter, sweet potato and homegrown cinnamon. Like the bourbon pointu, I can't stop at one serving.

‘You never know’, I thought, ‘Perhaps there’s another story to that comes with the second slice’.

How do South Africans get to Reunion Island?

South Africans don’t need a visa. Fill in an arrival form on landing in the capital, Saint-Denis and you’ll automatically qualify for a 90-day tourist stay. Air Austral offers direct flights between Johannesburg and Reunion.

The best places for South Africans to stay on Reunion Island

There are affordable options on Airbnb for travelling on a budget. It's easy to enjoy French cuisine using the affordable markets (visit the Saturday market in Saint-Paul for a great haul: Creole samoussas, fresh juice and spices such as vanilla) and supermarkets for groceries (where you pay about 1 euro for a local beer).

If you want a tropical beachside stay, Ness by d’Ocean Hotel is the newest addition to the west coast and looks onto a blue lagoon for safe swimming. It offers self-catering suites, but with a concierge environment and is 5km from the centre of Saint-Gilles-Les Bains, with its aquarium, restaurants and bars.

Hear Reunion Island's Local Stories for Yourself

The ‘Creole Flavours, from field to the plate’ experience includes a cooking class, lunch served on banana leaf plates and an agricultural walk with Philippe.

To book this and other unusual locally-led experiences visit www.reunion.fr.

For further information, contact the Reunion Island Tourism Board South African Office at reunionisland.za@atout-france.fr

I've partnered with @gotoreunionisland and am reliving beloved memories from my trip there last year 🇫🇷 All opinions and recommendations expressed are my own.

]]><![CDATA[Elephants of the Sea: Whale-Spotting off the KwaZulu-Natal Coast]]>Sun, 19 Jul 2020 22:00:00 GMThttp://www.melanievanzyl.com/adventures/whale-watching-kwazulu-natal-st-luciaForget the Western Cape. South Africa has more unusual, warmer whale-watching destinations you should head to this winter.

The Elephant Coast in northern KwaZulu-Natal is well known for being home to the Earth’s biggest land mammal, but it’s rarely considered to be the most desirable destination for another intelligent and enormous mammal – the whale. That accolade normally goes to the Western Cape.

In July 2018, WildOceans, Wildlife ACT (a conservation monitoring programme and Fairtrade-accredited volunteer project) in association with the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and various other conservation bodies and universities conducted the first humpback whale survey off the shores of iSimangaliso Wetland Park in nearly thirty years.

The survey forms part of a long-term, shore-based migration survey designed and initiated in 1988 by Professor Ken Findlay (now working with the Cape Peninsula University of Technology - CPUT) and Dr Peter Best (University of Pretoria’s in the Mammal Research Institute).

Everyone wants to know how these gentle giants of the sea are recovering after their numbers dwindled drastically due to a history of rampant commercial whaling.

Professor Findlay shared some stats on an official iSimangaliso Wetland Park news update saying, “The recovery of Southern Hemisphere humpback whales from severe whaling pressures last century when some 210000 animals were whaled, must rate as one of the world’s great conservation recoveries. Populations that migrate on the KZN coast each year were whaled in the Antarctic, on their migration and in their Mozambican breeding grounds. Their current recovery at some ten percent per annum is really heartening to see.”

Unfortunately, we’re going to have to wait a little longer to see more results from the survey though. WildOceans is a new marine and coastal conservation programme of WildTrust, an organisation running various programs to ensure ocean health and sustainability for all. The results from the humpback whale survey are set to feature in an upcoming documentary-series called Our Oceans and will report on the rich biodiversity of Africa’s oceans and the associated conservation challenges and threats. One of these threats is a controversial one.

Lauren van Nijkerk at WildTrust said, “You can’t talk about the whales of KwaZulu-Natal without mentioning the strandings”. Although we have no South African studies, investigations abroad suggest that deep-sea oil and gas exploration using seismic equipment may be the cause of whales and dolphins washing up on our beaches.

Senior Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife marine ecologist, Dr Jennifer Olbers, put together a thorough report on beach strandings in Natal, with noise interference cited as one of the causes. Predators, man-made toxins and severe weather conditions are cited as other causes. “Globally, it is recognised that seismic surveys (researchers use vibrations produced artificially by explosions to create detailed images of local geology to help them possible oil and gas reservoirs under the ocean) can have direct detrimental effects on marine animals, such as soft tissue damage, hearing loss or even death. While indirect effects of additional sound in the water may disrupt communication, reproduction, navigation and feeding behaviour which are essential for survival”.

Why is this controversial? Well, in 2014, a change in the environmental and mining legislation occurred. There’s a loophole in that it’s no longer a requirement for an Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) to be carried out prior to the issue of a seismic survey permit.

Tempted by this resurgence of interest in these seaside statistics, I decided to get a closer look for myself. In operation since 1991 and a responsible operator belonging to the SA Boat Based Whale Watching Association, Advantage Tours was my way into the ocean with Berno Phillipson as my skipper. He’s been tackling the rough ride off St Lucia’s beach out into the sea for ten years. It was a relatively calm morning, but the sea was seriously choppy.

“These conditions are great for whale-watching. The whales use this swell to propel their bodies up and out of the water”, said Berno. No one was seasick on our trip out, but wearing jeans was a bad choice.

I got thoroughly soaked by water splashing into the boat. Soon though, humpback whales were flicking out of the water all around me and my damp denims soon became a delight as I felt the sprays from their splashing at such close quarters.

On board, Berno taught us some of the tricks performed by these sweet cetaceans. There’s the regular blowing, but also lobtailing, which is when the whale slaps its tail on the surface (and each tail, or fluke, is unique, just like our fingerprints), but, the most impressive had to be breaching. Despite their elephantine size, the humpbacks would throw their entire bulk from the water falling back into the water with an incredible slosh.

Every year, the whales work their way along this migratory route for six months. First, they move north to breed in Mozambique from June to September, before doubling back during spring to reach the nutrient-rich waters of Antarctica.

Back inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, I went to see exactly how the survey was being conducted. The dunes at Cape Vidal in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park provided the perfect vantage point for the shore-based counts and one tower, in particular, has been magnificently revamped for and visitors alike.

Kwasheleni Tower has exceptional 360-degree views across both St Lucia Lake and the Indian Ocean and it’s perfect for finding whales. We also saw a bachelor herd of buffalo and almost twenty kudus that padded peacefully across the grassy slopes.

As I looked out from Kwasheleni Tower, across the glistening Lake St Lucia and past the forests harbouring furtive leopards right beside the sea (I know because one darted across the tar road before my own eyes). The inspiringly rehabilitated landscapes of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are a living success story and I couldn’t help but feel hopeful for the local humpback inhabitants.

Hope that the success on land is mirrored in the sea. Hope that South Africa still has some wild waters.

Wild, whale-filled waters.

Wonderful Whales

Keep an eye on the WildOceans website and the Our Oceans Facebook page for release info on the documentary series that reports on epic ocean exploration. Each episode focuses on an iconic group; whales, coelacanths and sharks. From remote outer reefs in the Indian Ocean to popular South African surf beaches.

Go out to sea from the wild village of St Lucia with Advantage Tours (there are also boat trips that depart from Richards Bay and the launch is said to be calmer from the harbour there.)

To stand on top of Kwasheleni Tower, enter iSimangaliso Wetland Park from the Eastern Shores Gate and drive towards Cape Vidal.

Best time to go to whale watching in KwaZulu-Natal? The winter months, between June and November are the best for finding whales off the coast of St Lucia and Richards Bay.

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